A Journey Through Time
"It’s a mild summer’s day in northeast Victoria," writes Kline, "and the region’s putting on a superb showing of crisp blue skies and slow bucolic charm reminiscent of a bygone era." Walking into most Rutherglen barrel rooms, he notes, "brings the eerie, all-consuming feeling that you’ve stepped back in time." Rows of elderly oak barrels exude the haunting presence that comes from weathering world wars, droughts, and floods.
The Gold Rush Legacy
The Victorian gold rush in the 1850s and 1860s brought prosperity to Australia, and Rutherglen emerged from this period with a unique type of "liquid gold"—its fortified wines. Lindsay Brown, the pioneer of Rutherglen’s wine industry, famously said, “Dig gentlemen, dig, but no deeper than six inches, for there is more gold to be won from the top six inches than from all of the depths below.”
Perfect Terroir
Rutherglen, located 296 kilometres northeast of Melbourne, enjoys a continental climate with warm days and cool nights, ideal for growing grapes with intensity and richness. This unique environment contributes to the exceptional quality of Rutherglen’s wines, particularly its renowned Muscat and Topaque.
Rutherglen’s Signature Styles
Muscat: Known for its high sweetness and complex flavours, Rutherglen Muscat boasts aromas of orange blossom, espresso, and dark chocolate. Its classification system ranges from Rutherglen Muscat to Rare Rutherglen Muscat, each tier increasing in complexity and richness.
Topaque: Made from Muscadelle grapes, Rutherglen Topaque features aromas of cold tea leaf, toffee, and honey, with flavours of malt and walnut. It shares the same classification system as Muscat, indicating varying levels of complexity and intensity.
The Importance of Table Wines
Table wines, such as old-vine Durif and Shiraz, play a crucial role in Rutherglen’s sustainability. Kline highlights how table wines contribute to preserving the region’s legacy and broadening its appeal.
A Commitment to Sustainability
Nick Brown, Winemaker of All Saints Estate, St Leonards Vineyard, and Mount Ophir Estate, highlights Rutherglen’s balance of tradition and innovation: “Fortified production is far less these days, yet no less important. We are showing through new varietal plantings and technology that we are progressive and energetic.” The region's dedication to sustainability is demonstrated by its participation in the Sustainable Winegrowing Australia (SWA) programme, with the majority of its wineries SWA-certified.
A Bright Future
Nick Brown asserts, “Innovation by our community members will take Rutherglen to another level.” Despite the evolving wine industry, Rutherglen’s historical fortified wines remain a testament to its enduring legacy.
